Embarking on a Welsh Winter Wander
As a lover of the outdoors, I constantly seek new opportunities for interesting country walks. I find that walking is a great way to relax the mind.
On this occasion, my winter visit to see family in Porthcawl, South Wales, presented the perfect chance. While my boys enjoyed quality time with their grandmother, I saw no better opportunity to stretch my legs for a few miles.
So, with my winter walking gear packed and my route planned, there was just one thing lingering at the back of my mind - the imminent arrival of Storm Garrit. But the prospect of torrential rain and 75 mph winds wasn’t enough to deter my plans…
The Call of the Hometown
I moved away from Porthcawl in my 20s, yet I find myself drawn back a couple of times each year for both family and nostalgic visits. As an enthusiast of the great outdoors, Porthcawl never ceases to amaze me with its rich history, expansive coastal trails, a nature reserve of vast sand dunes, and serene country landscapes.
Where exactly is Porthcawl? For those in the UK, it's likely you've glimpsed its iconic lighthouse and pier gracing the backdrop of storm coverage in the news.
Erected in 1860, the Porthcawl Lighthouse has become a symbol of resilience against the tempestuous Welsh weather. Standing at 30ft, it has safeguarded mariners navigating the Bristol Channel and Porthcawl marina through tumultuous times, including two world wars. Today, it boasts a £12,000 lamp that casts a beacon three to four nautical miles into the sea, guiding vessels safely to shore.
Dating back, Porthcawl was primarily a small fishing village. Imagine quaint cottages and boats bobbing on the waves, with fishermen sharing tales of the sea. As the Industrial Revolution powered up, Porthcawl blossomed into a bustling port, waving in ships loaded with coal from the South Wales Valleys, ready to dance across the seas.
But, like turning the page in a fairy tale, Porthcawl transformed once more, this time into a beloved seaside resort in the 19th and 20th centuries. Families would flock here, their days filled with the laughter of children building sandcastles, the joy of donkey rides, and the thrill of the fair at Coney Beach Amusement Park.
There are many landmarks in and around Porthcawl, but the one I’d planned on visiting during this trip was Sker House - an old 12th century building with a lot of history.
These landmarks, steeped in history, not only connect us to the past but remind us of the power of nature and the importance of finding peace and resilience within it. Walking these historical paths offers more than just physical activity; it's a journey through time, providing a unique perspective on the strength and beauty of our natural world.
Preparing for the Journey
My weekly ritual of long walks has refined my equipment choices to a fine art — an extra layer in winter and waterproof essentials are a given. Yet, the incoming storm promised this Welsh walk would test my preparedness further.
I selected my trusted Helly Hanson thermal top and goose down jacket — my warmth oasis during breaks — complemented by my North Face waterproof shell. My gear, including lightweight hiking boots, gloves, and hat, was chosen with one thought: to outlast Storm Garrit's chill.
As a regular runner, I have plenty of clothing that can also be used when out walking. Items such as a Helly Hanson base layer top. These are extremely lightweight and along with my lightweight North Face waterproof jacket, are the two layers I tend to go with in the winter.
Whilst during winter, I find these to be a great combination, they only keep me warm enough when I am currently moving. When I need to stop for any reason, such as having a bite to eat, I take a further warm top to put on while my body cools down. As soon as I set off again I place this extra top back in my rucksack.
What else do I take, well a small daysack, a 1.1L water bottle, a few essential snacks, an emergency water filter, and a first-aid kit — The first-aid kit, a silent reminder of a past trek where a simple bandage turned a potential disaster into a minor hiccup, was tucked into my pack, but that’s a story for another post. In summer, water would be doubled, but winter demands were different.
My plan was simply to circle Porthcawl so I would never be far away from the town itself and knew that if the weather got too bad, I could cut the trip short. My starting location was Nottage, then to walk up the lanes across Stormy Down to Tythegston, onto the dunes and across to Candlestand Castle, find and follow Ogmore River to the sea, then along the coast all the way to haunted Sker House and finally back to Nottage.The last time I was in Porthcawl, I did a similar route like this that was around 9 miles in the middle of summer. This time, my route would be longer, 17 miles, plus its the middle of winter and I’d have Storm Garrit to contend with.
I wanted to get a photo of Sker House which was around 14 miles into the walk so really hoped I wouldn’t have to cut my walk short.
The First 10 Miles
Bag packed, bright sunny blue sky (where is the storm?), a smile and I’m off.
One mile in and I’ve got away from the busy roads. I always love this feeling of being outdoors and getting away from the hustle and bustle of cities and towns.
The first 10 miles or so was simply walking down the lanes out of my old stomping ground, Nottage, up a hill, past some wind turbines and over to Tythegston. I went across one main road then on to country trails.
After about 10 miles I started to think that I was going to miss the storm but even though the weather was fine I could see dark clouds looming in the distance, it had also been constantly raining for the past 24 hours so I suspected that the trails up ahead would be very muddy.
Another mile and I realised just how much it had rained. The track ahead of me was completely flooded from the nearby river!
I stopped to asses the situation. The weather was still fine but the flood was too deep to walk across. When I say too deep, it was only around a foot but that would have soaked my boots and I didnt fancy walking another 7 miles with drenched feet. I explored around a bit and found an area of the flood that was only a few feet wide so decided to jump. Had it been summer, I would have just taken my boots off and walked across.
Back on the track but after another few hundred metres, the flood blocked my path again so I had to jump the river a second time and finally made it to the sand dunes.
The photo doesn’t really do it justice but that dune was very steep and I had to get to the top of it if I was going to get to Ogmore River. I could have found an alternative route around it but where is the fun in that, also, my legs were still feeling strong so I decided to go up and over but walking up sand is a lot harder than a normal grassy incline.
Five minutes of burning leg muscles and completely out of breath, I reached the top for my first water break, and to catch my breath. I took this opportunity to check my map and look around. I could see the river to my left and could hear the sea in front of me so all I needed to do was walk parallel to the rive, across the dunes and would eventually get to the coast.
It was around this time that the wind picked up and the sky looked really dark so I knew it was about rain.
Storm Garitt had arrived and started to get angry..
The Heart of the Storm
I could see the coast up ahead and at the same time felt the skies darken. Within minutes the heavens opened and it absolutely hammered down.
Even though I had a waterproof jacket, I had a feeling that the intensity of this rain was going to beat it. Also, my trousers weren’t waterproof, they were shower proof so I mentally prepared myself that it was likely I was going to get very wet.
My route from here would be to get close to the beach then walk along it for about 5 miles which would take me to Sker House.
The wind had picked up a lot and the rain was really heavy and was hurting my face so I had to pull my hood around as much as possible. Within a mile I could feel the water getting in through my jacket and the wind felt like it was going straight through me. My body temperature was also starting to drop.
This was not good so I decided to put on my goose down jacket under my waterproof. I even considered cutting the trip short as clearly, the waterproofs I had weren’t very effective. I continued walking, first coming to Newton Beach, then Coney Beach. It would have been easy to get back to Nottage from here but I wanted to get to Sker House.
I walked through Porthcawl for another couple of miles then finally arrived at Sker House. The distinct yellow brick building is unmistakable. It was around this time that the rain finally stopped. This was good as I wanted to take some photos and I was worried that my phone would get wet.
Sker House
Sker House is a historic building located near Porthcawl, in the Bridgend County Borough of South Wales. It is one of the oldest and most historically significant properties in the area, with parts of the building dating back to the 12th century, though the majority of the existing structure is from the 16th century. It is famous for its associations with Welsh folklore and ghost stories and is reputed to be one of the most haunted places in Wales.
Coming Home
It was time to head back home. It was a relaxing 2 mile walk. I always find that after about 12 miles or so of walking that my energy has gone so I would glad to get back and have a soak in the bath. I’d also not eaten anything along the way so was pretty hungry now.
There was a nice, well deserved, chicken curry waiting for me.
Lessons from the Flooded Trails
Once I was home, had finally stopped shivering and re-fuelled my body I had the chance to reflect on the walk.
Whilst 17 miles may not seem like much to many of you, I always walk at a fast pace. I like to push myself and use it as a form of physical as well as mental, training. Also, a lot of the walk was over dunes with a lot of going up and down small inclines which soon wears your leg muscles out.
I think the main thing that I would change if I was in this situation again would be to take better waterproofs but in fairness, my North Face jacket is usually fine during normal showers. The wind and rain from this storm was very harsh and the sheer volume was enough to get in through the seam of my jacket.
Due to family commitments, most of my walks are only ever day trips and I never go far from home so I think I’ll keep my kit as it is. Its lightweight and serves its purpose the majority of the time. Maybe I’ll pack some lightweight waterproof trousers and another emergency base layer next time.
The Power of Nature on Well-being
Going for a walk in the country offers significant benefits for both physical and mental health.
Physically, it's an excellent form of exercise that can improve cardiovascular health, strengthen muscles, and increase endurance. Walking on uneven terrain of the countryside also engages more muscle groups than walking on flat surfaces, enhancing balance and coordination.
Additionally, the fresh air and natural environment can contribute to better lung health and encourage a more active lifestyle, aiding in weight management and overall fitness.
Mentally, spending time in nature during a country walk can have a profound impact on well-being. It offers a break from the stresses of daily life, reducing anxiety and depression symptoms.
The natural beauty and quiet of the countryside can help clear the mind, improving focus and creativity. Exposure to natural landscapes has been shown to lower stress levels, boost mood, and enhance psychological resilience. Walking in such settings can also foster a sense of peace and contentment, contributing to improved mental health and emotional stability.
Overall, walking in the country is a holistic activity that nurtures the body and mind, promoting a healthier, more balanced lifestyle.
Until my next adventure, I will leave you with this quote from a very wise person:
“If you're in a bad mood, go for a walk. If you return still in a bad mood, go for another walk. - anon”
Your journey to wellness starts here. Claim your Free Lifestyle Report today and take control of your health like never before.
Get My Free Report
"Reduce stress and support overall wellness with these Ashwagandha capsules – a natural way to balance your mind and body."
"This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you."
Please sign up or log in to post a comment.